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-Elliptical trainers range from $200 all the way to $5000. Depending on the quality and the money you are looking to spend would depend on the model I would recommend. If you want to stay below $1000 check out the Tunturi C3, it goes for around $699. Below $2000 I would recommend the Trimline ellipticals. They have 2 models both in that price range. $3000 look at the Precor. Price isnt a issue check out the SportsArt 8300, Life Fitness or Precor Commercial units. All are really nice. -I wonder if there have been any comparisons between the ellipticals and say the Nordic Track for cardio? Having owned the Nordic Track for many years, I feel they do a great cardio. It does keep my heart rate up in the proper ranges. I also found I can’t even give it away these days as they are now WAY out of vogue. You can find them on eBay for $150.00 in excellent condition. I just wonder if the ellipticals will follow the same path in a year or two? I’ve since moved to a stepper (schwinn <$300). It seems to do a better job at building endurance in my legs (note my non-technical muscle descriptions here)

Online, I have been reading good things about the Schwinn 418 and the Ironman 600e.

Another model that catches my interest is the Lifecore Fitness 990.

http://www.lifecorefitness.com/lc990.html

Does anyone have experience with this company/model? It appears to be very sturdy (up to 350lbs), rear drive, and in the price range of the front-drive models that I’ve seen. However, there is little press on the company/model.

Answer:
You missed the boat. Surely you noticed the ones you mention, the Proforms, horizons, etc. all shared one trait, they looked like a little kids toy bike compared to the Nordick Tracks which looked like Lance’s bike? The others have 1″ tubular steel, the Nordic Track has 4″ x 5″ square tubing? The others had almost no electronics, the NT 910 has all the bells and whistles. The crappy ones a 3 month warranty, the NT 910 a one year in-home warranty. Get a clue.

Answer:
-I ride a 97 homegrown factory esp. i love it. used to have a c-dale and the schwinn is a SO much nicer ride. don’t get turned off just because its a schwinn. its a truly awesome bike. (the frame is made by yeti anyway) -had to make the same decision between a 98 Homegrown or 98 Mt. Tam. I went with the Mt. Tam due mainly to the Genesis Geometry. It sounded like hype to me at the time, but it REALLY works. The bike does so, so on the street, but once you enter technical singletrack the bike comes alive. Extremely nimble in all situations. I did have to ditch the crap Icon pedal that came with it for some Speedplay Frogs, but most everything else is right at the level I would have upgraded to anyways. Make sure you call around and haggle the price. I got my 98 Tam for $1500 at a local shop after presenting them with quotes from other national shops. The list price at that time was $1700. I remember riding the Schwinn and comming very close to purchasing it. It was the ONLY other bike which rode and fit as well as the Fisher. -I have to say that I love my Schwinn Homegrown. it climbs like a mother and when I jump out of the saddle to sprint it responds right away. The epicenter seat and chain stays make brake response instant.

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-I’m quite suspicious; it sounds to me like they’re trying to use the “it’s a mountain bike” excuse for why it won’t fall apart due to bad workmanship. Would you buy a car, and accept the excuse that “sure, the quality’s less, but at least it has a lot of iron!” ? I don’t have $ 230 for a new bike… I don’t know whether or not you’re getting something of value or not, but lately whenever I see one of these “mountain” bikes that never leaves a sidewalk, usually ridden by someone without a helmet (I guess the pedestrians are going to break their fall) I feel like a con is going on… -As a bicycle commuter, I can offer some useful advice. Yes — it’s a good idea to have wide tires on a commuting bike so you can watch for traffic rather than subtle imperfections in the road surface. Here are two other considerations. You will need a Kryptonite lock no matter what kind of bike you get. The bike store salespeople will tell you, “Since you aren’t buying a fancy bike, you don’t need a very good lock.” WRONG. So figure the cost of the lock into your calculations. The second thing to keep in mind is that bike stores will often include a year free service with your purchase. As for what sort of bike you need, the best way to find out is to borrow a bike from a friend and then try riding your commute route. Another way is to look at what other bike commuters are using. If your 4 miles are flat, you could probably get by with a one-speed. Discount bikes tend to be heavy, but again if your route is flat, it may not matter much.

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-I assume you’re talking about road tires, since tread makes a big difference with dirt tires. 20 years ago, road tires had alot deeper tread than they do now. In recent years, some companies have gone to completely balt road tires, apparently with good results, even in wet weather. Most modern road tires now have very little tread. -For road tires and most off road tires not used in soft terrain, it is what the riders believe is necessary, and by that I mean patterned tread instead of smooth tread. That tires are more fashion than function is evident by the rash of colored tires no being used, they have poor wet traction and wear faster than black tires, and they are mostly slick. The same people who believe that miniature automobile tread patterns are essential also ride colored slick tires. The logic is typical of bicycling. So why do you hide in anonymity? -On a recent ride, I had a chance to ride in the rain behind 2 different riders. Both bikes had exactly the same tires (Contintal Grand Prix 3000 700X23), but one set had several hundred miles on it and the other was new. The new tires still had all the treads visable and the used set looked pretty much like a slick. I noticed that the new tires generated a much smaller “rooster tail” (water flung into the air by the tire). The 3 of us rode at least 50 miles in the rain so this observation was not an isolated circumstance. I don’t want to jump to conclusions about traction in the rain and tread patterns, but what would cause this effect?

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-The hardware store Osh has some cool 27×1 1/4 knobbies from Cheng Shin that should work fine if your current ones are 1 1/4. -Bicycle history and it’s quirks. Long story told short: there were (still are, a bit) two competing standards, the “English” (inch based) , so-called 27″ size and the Euro (metric based) system, of which “700c” is the most common. A 27″ system rim has a bead seat diameter of 630mm (that’s the 630 in the 630-32 you mentioned earlier) and a 700c has a bead seat diameter of 622mm. So, yes, they are close in size and just different enough to be totally non-compatible (in terms of tires on rims). Once upon a time, the 27″ size ruled in the US, but it has given way to 700c in the past 20 years or so. Anyway, if your rims are okay, keep using them. They are wide enough to take any tire your bike will accept. You will have a narrower choice of tires (in 27″ as opposed to 700c), but there are still good options available (I’m partial to the Panaracer Pasela line, especially in terms of price v. performance).

Answer:
-You need a patch kit ($2) or spare tube ($4) and a set of tire levers ($1). If you use the spare tube, it’ll take 5-10 minutes. Patching the tube takes a little longer. -Everyone who rides should know how to fix flats, on the road if necessary. All you need is a spare tube, a pump on the bike, and two tire levers to pry the tire off the rim. If you can’t get someone to show you how to replace a tube, you also need a book that tells you how. A good bike shop should be able to recommend one. It’s a good idea to practice once or twice at home, before you have a flat out on the road. An experienced cyclist can remove a wheel, dismount one of the the tire beads, pull out the tube, remove the source of the flat, install a new tube, remount the tire bead, reinflate the tire, and reinstall the wheel in 5 minutes. I’ve seen it done much faster. You need a patch kit to repair tubes at home. Whenever you have a flat, always make sure you locate the source of the flat (thorn, nail, piece of glass, etc.) before replacing the tube.

Answer:
-I haven’t found the one definitive “bicycle repair book” so I have several, Hayne’s Bicycle Book, Richard’s Ultimate Bicycle Book, Sloane’s Complete Book of Bicycling and Bicycling Magazine’s Complete Guide to Bicycle Maintenance and Repair”. Each book has something to offer, I can usually find a solution to a problem in one of these books, but usually any one book on it’s own doesn’t have all of the answers. Also check www.amazon.com and do a search on bicycling or cycling and you are sure to find many other books listed. -Nobody here has mentioned Zinn and the Art of [Road Bike/Mountain Bike] Repair. I have been happy with the MTB version, which is quite complete and covers a few things that might have otherwise tripped me up. I’m a fairly confident bike mechanic (nothing on a bicycle is very scary after doing motorcycle maintenance), but I like having specifications and clear diagrams. -I have never felt the urge to purchase a book on bicycle repairs. With access to so many excellent web sites (Sheldon, Park Tools etc. etc.) I feel I don’t need to. I’m probably never going to need to carry out all the repairs in a book (take one that covers all types of brakes for example) but I can always find a website and print it off if I need a reference when I’m in the garage. I keep all the print-offs I make in a folder, which I can refer to in the future if necessary. Can anyone explain what I’m missing by using the Net rather than buying a book? -Have you tried the library? the internet connection has a site called “world catalog” maybe under ‘references’ past the ‘HOME’ page. ask the librarian. you can search for’bicycle mechanics’ ‘bicycle touring’ ‘bicycle repair’ ect.ALL books every written (more or less-you’ll see) are there with availability via “INTERLIBRARY LOAN”. my favorite was written by Cuthbertson.

Answer:
-My latest great yard sale find was 15 pieces of sterling silver flatware, all in the same pattern, for $8 total. I got 5 forks, 5 spoons, and 5 knives. It was heavily tarnished, so I used baking soda, aluminum foil, and hot water to get the tarnish off, and it’s beautiful. I checked internet sites and e-bay, and each piece seems to sell for $12-20. My daughter has already put dibs in on inheriting the “family” silver. Over the years, I’ve managed to get service for 8. There are a variety of patterns, but each place setting is a set of a single pattern. This is the first time I’ve managed to get this much in one pattern. Now, I just need to get my grandma’s china from my mom. -Unless you are short on storage space, don’t pass up on any bicycle at a yard sale that looks like it might be more than a few years old and sells for $20 or less. Some old bikes are good for transportation, some are collectible, some are good for parts, and there is a huge market for them. -Here’s one for you: A couple of years ago we saw a brand-new Schwinn Paramount, purchased by a guy’s dad and stored in the garage ever since. The guy still had the receipt. It was exactly my husband’s size. He wanted $250 for it. We have enough bicycles already, let someone who would REALLY appreciate it have it. Did I tell you about the near-virgin Trek 520 (is that the touring version? Been a while…) for $5?

Answer:
-Putting a baby on a rack mounted baby seat is ill advised in my opinion. It is a horrible sight to see when you crash, even if the kid has a helmet. Put the tike in a trailer, then ride in the park where there is no cars…or wait untill it can ride on its own. -”When” you crash? Don’t look on crashing as inevitable! Biking is just not that dangerous! “Ride in the park where there are no cars”? If you’re not confident in traffic, stay off the busy four lanes, but certainly you can ride on quiet neighborhood streets. Biking is not that dangerous! “Wait until it can ride on its own”? Give up biking for 5 or 6 years? Pardon me, but you seem to be adopting the typical American attitude: Biking is horribly dangerous; only cars are safe; thank God for GM. I think you need a vacation in another country, one where bikes are more commonly used for transportation. It might show you what’s possible if you think of a bike as more than a toy. Again, I carried my kid for years with no mishaps, no close calls, on all sorts of roads. We’re both glad I did. It’s not that bad out there!